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Fred's
FAQ
What's a Good M1A to Get?
The standard of M1As is the Springfield, and they are getting up a little in price, although used ones can be found, and generally, with little use (shameful of gun owners not to become proficient, but their loss is your gain). If you buy a new one, you can sometimes take advantage of special offers by Springfield on scopes and accessories that in effect brings the price down.
M-K Specialties is rapidly developing a reputation in the field, first rewelding original GI M14 cut receivers; most recently, producing an all-new forged receiver. The verdict is not in on these, although the company's reputation would suggest a good product. As in the initial stages of any new commercial product, shipping delays are causing disappointment among eager buyers. Be prepared to wait a while if you order one. [Bad news: recent info indicates that MK is having a problem with BATF, and I would not count on any of their rifles being available until further notice.]
When buying a used M1A, look for GI parts. At least check the trigger group, op rod, and bolt, all of which should carried GI parts numbers and maker's stamp - if you don't know what they look like, check a friend's M1A, or cruise the gun shows (while they are still around).
Barrel wear is something that only an experienced person can judge by eye, and then only roughly, by checking the lands just ahead of the chamber. On an M1A, you’ll need a reflector to look up the bore from the chamber end. Best is a commercial or GI throat erosion gauge (a “T.E. gauge”), which a friend may have, or, rarely, you can borrow at a gun show. A ‘throat’ of ‘0’ up to ‘1’ is considered nearly new; ‘4’ would be reject by the military for match use; ‘6’ would be barrel replacement time. I routinely shoot mine to a ‘9’ or more with acceptable accuracy out to 500 yards, so I suggest wringing the barrel of all its useability before you swap it out for a new one. When you do replace, replace with an original US GI chrome-lined barrel for max barrel life.
Because most M1As are shot very little by their owners, you have a good chance of getting a rifle that has seen little, if any use. If the rifle otherwise looks 'new', and no gauge is around, you won't be taking too much risk by buying it.
With mags so expensive, you can save money getting only two. Four would be better, but more than 4 is not needed if you have ammo stored in bandoleers and strippers.
Other makes besides Springfield: Federal Ordnance, sneered at by the armorers, but the one I had worked great. The early ones had all GI parts; after several thousand were made, Chinese parts started appearing until, in the last ones made, all the parts were Chinese, including the receiver.
If you are really lucky and come across a receiver marked “Smith”, snap it up! It’s likely forged!
Chinese rifles? There’s enough controversy that I’d stay away from them unless the deal is irresistible.
If you can’t afford an M1A now, cheaper rifles that a rifleman would select for real use would be (in order of increasing cost) any British Enfield, with the No 4 with its peep sight a first choice ($100+); an SKS ($150+), any make; a CMP M1 Garand ($400), or an FN-FAL ($500+). Any would be good choices for an intermediate or a backup gun you could lend to a friend if a pinch comes.
Ammo for all the above is cheap, and you should “buy it cheap and stack it deep” as one fellow so eloquently put it. To put it in perspective, I talked with an RGC member who built an M1A for another member, and he quoted the excited new M1A owner as saying, “I’m really set now, got the rifle and 3000 rounds of ammo!” The armorer paused, got a smile on his face, and said “A 100,000 rounds is - nothing!” Okay, you may not need 100,000 rounds, but you may need to lift your expectations a bit. Five or ten thousand rounds will be in reach, and would be a good investment. When it comes to ammo, think big! |
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